It's been quite awhile since my last post, and I'm not going to try and recap what (little) has happened since then. I did spend last weekend in rain-soaked Paris with a friend of mine whom I met in L'Aquila last summer, but since then it's been pretty smooth/boring sailing.
I have started a homeward-bound countdown, and as of today, I only have 33 days left here in Lyon. While I know that I will miss it here when I leave, it's hard to appreciate every moment when all I can think about is how happy I will be to get home.
In order to remedy this, I'm going to start a list of things that I will miss about Lyon. But I don't want to create some sort of false, preemptive nostalgia, so I'll accompany it with a list of things I'm looking forward to about going home.
Things I will miss about Lyon:
The Quai Saint-Antoine market. Sure, America has finally caught on to the whole farmer's market/buy local/organic produce movement, but we will never do it quite as well as the French. This is the most beautiful, bustling, colorful market I have ever seen in my life, and it is right around the corner from my building. On Sunday mornings, the delicious smell of roasted chickens floats through the air above the Saône. Grocers hawking their wares shout "Allez! Allez!" into the crowded walkway between the two ailes of food stalls.
Things I'm excited to return to in America:
Television! As my cinema teacher has repeatedly told us, French television is horrendous. From the beginning, the television system in this country never made it possible to create entertaining shows. And, like many other things in France, television completely lacks structure (there is no such thing as seasons! how is that possible?). So, I am very excited to get back to February sweeps, mid-season replacements, and prime time television when I touch down stateside.
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Thursday, April 23, 2009
home (almost) alone
It's been a strange last couple of days on the host family front. After coming back from Morocco last week, I've only seen my host parents a handful of times. Last night, no one was around at dinner time, so I made myself some pasta (because I don't know how to cook anything else). The kids came trickling in and I let them share what I made. Tonight, the same thing happened - but I made a kick-ass omelet for myself which the kids could not quite replicate. Apparently my host parents are in Paris until Saturday - which is funny, because I am going to Paris on Saturday. This isn't unusual (they are often there for business) except that they usually tell me when they are going and my eldest host sister is usually around to prepare dinner. Last night she was at dance practice, and tonight she's nowhere to be found. Hm.
On another topic, tomorrow I will be having a little shindig with two of my friends from to belatedly and collectively celebrate our birthdays, which all happened more or less over the Easter break. This will probably be the last time that the whole group of my friends are gathered together, which really makes things feel like they are drawing to a close. I have six more weeks left in Lyon - and to be honest, I am totally ready to head home. Sure, there are things that I will miss about being here. But spending time with my parents over spring break really made me realize how anxious I am to get back home. I want to bring my camera with me as often as possible in these last few weeks and take more pictures of Lyon. I have hundreds of pictures from all the fabulous places I've traveled to, but hardly any of the city that I have called home for the last 9 months. After what has happened in L'Aquila, I realize that my everyday surroundings are not something I should be taking for granted.
On another topic, tomorrow I will be having a little shindig with two of my friends from to belatedly and collectively celebrate our birthdays, which all happened more or less over the Easter break. This will probably be the last time that the whole group of my friends are gathered together, which really makes things feel like they are drawing to a close. I have six more weeks left in Lyon - and to be honest, I am totally ready to head home. Sure, there are things that I will miss about being here. But spending time with my parents over spring break really made me realize how anxious I am to get back home. I want to bring my camera with me as often as possible in these last few weeks and take more pictures of Lyon. I have hundreds of pictures from all the fabulous places I've traveled to, but hardly any of the city that I have called home for the last 9 months. After what has happened in L'Aquila, I realize that my everyday surroundings are not something I should be taking for granted.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
ouar-za-zate? why, morocco, of course!
During the course of my 10 day stay in Morocco, I became obsessed with the word OUARZAZATE (pronouced "where - zah - sat") and set it to a rap that became the soundtrack to my tour of that beautiful country. It truly is one of the most magnificent I've ever seen. We went from the seaside promenade in Casablanca to the Savoy-like ski resort of Ifrane, from the labyrinth that is Fez's ancient medina to the broad avenues of Marrakesh that recall South Beach (even though it is nowhere near any beach).
The highlight, though, was certainly my journey via dromedary (like a camel, but with only one hump) to the Mergouza sand dunes in the Moroccan Sahara. The desert is a vibrant golden orange color which seems unreal.
Since I couldn't possibly narrate every single moment of my trip, I'll let the pictures do the talking. They'll be up on Photobucket asap.
The highlight, though, was certainly my journey via dromedary (like a camel, but with only one hump) to the Mergouza sand dunes in the Moroccan Sahara. The desert is a vibrant golden orange color which seems unreal.
Since I couldn't possibly narrate every single moment of my trip, I'll let the pictures do the talking. They'll be up on Photobucket asap.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
vacation has rarely felt this good
It almost seems strange to me to be leaving on a 2-week vacation when I've been spending the entire school year bouncing around Europe. But I am very much looking forward to a few relaxing days in Paris on my own. My parents arrive on Tuesday, and I've convinced them to day-trip with me to Mont-Saint-Michel on Thursday before our early flight out to Casablanca on Friday.
Since I won't have my computer on me, I'll be old-schooling it on this leg of the trip -- but I'll be back in two weeks with lots of anecdotes and photos, I'm sure!
Since I won't have my computer on me, I'll be old-schooling it on this leg of the trip -- but I'll be back in two weeks with lots of anecdotes and photos, I'm sure!
Monday, March 30, 2009
mouillée in marseille
It seems like every time I travel to the South of France, the weather takes a turn for the worst. After a week of beautiful, clear skies in Lyon, it rained clear through the weekend, which I spent in Aix-en-Provence and Marseille.
As promised, Aix was very charming and had beautiful architecture. It is very much the typical Provençal community you imagine when you think of the South of France. Even through the gray mist, I was captivated by the old hôtels particuliers that line Cours Mirabeau and the city's famous fountains.
I had heard a lot of bad reviews from friends of mine who had already been to Marseille. It's the country's second largest city and biggest port, and has been point of entry to continental Europe for immigrants across the globe for millenia. While certainly more working class than most other French cities, I found Marseille quite beautiful, especially set on the backdrop of the Mediterranean. We also had a particularly pleasant dining experience at the first ever Corsican restaurant I have ever been to, which was run by some very friendly and boisterous gentlemen. And during the last few hours of our stay, the sun finally decided to come out and gave us a pretty beautiful sunset:
All in all, a good weekend in Provence. I look forward to heading back south next month, where I'll be staying in Nice during the Cannes film festival!
As promised, Aix was very charming and had beautiful architecture. It is very much the typical Provençal community you imagine when you think of the South of France. Even through the gray mist, I was captivated by the old hôtels particuliers that line Cours Mirabeau and the city's famous fountains.
I had heard a lot of bad reviews from friends of mine who had already been to Marseille. It's the country's second largest city and biggest port, and has been point of entry to continental Europe for immigrants across the globe for millenia. While certainly more working class than most other French cities, I found Marseille quite beautiful, especially set on the backdrop of the Mediterranean. We also had a particularly pleasant dining experience at the first ever Corsican restaurant I have ever been to, which was run by some very friendly and boisterous gentlemen. And during the last few hours of our stay, the sun finally decided to come out and gave us a pretty beautiful sunset:
All in all, a good weekend in Provence. I look forward to heading back south next month, where I'll be staying in Nice during the Cannes film festival!
Friday, March 27, 2009
that sartre sure knew his stuff
I don't know if this comes through in my writing, but my adoration of France has been waning of late. Seven months away from home had started to take its toll. And then I went to see "Les Mains Sales" by Jean-Paul Sartre.
It was at the Théâtre de la Croix Rousse, where I saw the very underwhelming "Nouveau Testament" last semester. This piece redeemed the theater in my eyes. In the context of the immediate post-war period, the clandestine factions of the French Communist Party are at odds over how to proceed. A young bourgeois intellectual with lofty ideals has just joined the cause and looks for a way to contribute. His enthusiasm earns him the mission of killing one of the party's highest ranking members, whom the others judge a traitor for compromising their ideals.
In the great tradition of French theater, the play is long, and not much happens. Long, complex philosophical and political debates swirl around the stage. And yet, there is a palpable tension. The suspense emerges in this period of inaction, from the uncertainty of how the characters will finally act should they ever make up their minds about how or why to do so.
With a wordy and psychological play such as this, only a strong cast would be able to pull it off. The actors were all wonderful for the most part. Though the performance did not go completely without fault, it was good enough to bring the most gripping aspects of this play to life an an effective way. This theater-going experience has definitely inspired me to read more Sartre. Perhaps a summer project?
It was at the Théâtre de la Croix Rousse, where I saw the very underwhelming "Nouveau Testament" last semester. This piece redeemed the theater in my eyes. In the context of the immediate post-war period, the clandestine factions of the French Communist Party are at odds over how to proceed. A young bourgeois intellectual with lofty ideals has just joined the cause and looks for a way to contribute. His enthusiasm earns him the mission of killing one of the party's highest ranking members, whom the others judge a traitor for compromising their ideals.
In the great tradition of French theater, the play is long, and not much happens. Long, complex philosophical and political debates swirl around the stage. And yet, there is a palpable tension. The suspense emerges in this period of inaction, from the uncertainty of how the characters will finally act should they ever make up their minds about how or why to do so.
With a wordy and psychological play such as this, only a strong cast would be able to pull it off. The actors were all wonderful for the most part. Though the performance did not go completely without fault, it was good enough to bring the most gripping aspects of this play to life an an effective way. This theater-going experience has definitely inspired me to read more Sartre. Perhaps a summer project?
Thursday, March 26, 2009
up in smoke
5:40 pm. Today. On the T1 tram line from Part Dieu.
The tram had just let off its passengers at Liberté, the stop right before Rue de l'Université. The conductor announced that the following stop was blocked. Most of the passengers exited the tram, including myself. I walked up Rue de Marseille towards the University. Turning the corner onto Rue de l'University, I see a column of dark black smoke. An ambulance with sirens on arrives on the scene. The people on the sidewalk watching did not seem to be in a panic, so I figured a pipe line must have broken or a manhole uncovered. A tram stood passenger-less at the intersection.
I approached the source of the smoke column. About 30 people were watching from each side of the sidewalk. Cars blocked my view, and I only realized what it was when I was at the entrance to the University. Metal barricades blocked the street bearing a sheet with the words "Education is a weapon, not merchandise." A pile of wood topped with chairs and tables from university classrooms was in flames.
Five minutes later, a fire truck pulled up. The firemen calmly put the flames out as the students behind the university gates chanted something I couldn't understand. As soon as the truck pulled away, I noticed that the police had redirected traffic so that Rue de l'Université was empty except for the charred remains of the bonfire. Then, a group of policemen armed like a SWAT team -- complete with helmets, tear gas, and bullet proof vests -- gathered in the middle of the road.
Then I went to class. If there was ever a day I wish I had had my camera on me, it was today. When I told this story to my host dad, he was not as impressed as I would have liked him to be. But apparently it's not all that shocking -- it happens about once every two years, he told me. I have to admit though, I was pretty scared when I saw those SWAT team guys get out of their cars. I don't know what I would have done if there had been a full on confrontation between them and the students. I don't even know what ended up happening because I went inside. Definitely an experience I'll never forget.
The tram had just let off its passengers at Liberté, the stop right before Rue de l'Université. The conductor announced that the following stop was blocked. Most of the passengers exited the tram, including myself. I walked up Rue de Marseille towards the University. Turning the corner onto Rue de l'University, I see a column of dark black smoke. An ambulance with sirens on arrives on the scene. The people on the sidewalk watching did not seem to be in a panic, so I figured a pipe line must have broken or a manhole uncovered. A tram stood passenger-less at the intersection.
I approached the source of the smoke column. About 30 people were watching from each side of the sidewalk. Cars blocked my view, and I only realized what it was when I was at the entrance to the University. Metal barricades blocked the street bearing a sheet with the words "Education is a weapon, not merchandise." A pile of wood topped with chairs and tables from university classrooms was in flames.
Five minutes later, a fire truck pulled up. The firemen calmly put the flames out as the students behind the university gates chanted something I couldn't understand. As soon as the truck pulled away, I noticed that the police had redirected traffic so that Rue de l'Université was empty except for the charred remains of the bonfire. Then, a group of policemen armed like a SWAT team -- complete with helmets, tear gas, and bullet proof vests -- gathered in the middle of the road.
Then I went to class. If there was ever a day I wish I had had my camera on me, it was today. When I told this story to my host dad, he was not as impressed as I would have liked him to be. But apparently it's not all that shocking -- it happens about once every two years, he told me. I have to admit though, I was pretty scared when I saw those SWAT team guys get out of their cars. I don't know what I would have done if there had been a full on confrontation between them and the students. I don't even know what ended up happening because I went inside. Definitely an experience I'll never forget.
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